PHYSICIST AND PROFESSIONAL ALPINIST
Alexander Huber, who is a UIAGM mountain guide, decided to abandon his scientific career in 1998 and to pursue an unknown path in the mountains instead.
All facets of mountaineering and rock climbing all over the world, that is his greatest passion, and together with his brother Thomas, they form one of the most successful rope parties of our time.
5.15a sport climbs, Bellavista, the first multi-pitch climb on an alpine wall with difficulties of 5.14b, new free routes and speed records on El Capitan in Yosemite, the first free ascent of the legendary Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower, the first ascent of the west face of Latok II (7.108m) and the free solo ascent of the Direttissima on Cima Grande are the most important events of his climbing life.
Moreover, like his brother Thomas, Alexander is a successful public speaker and author. Apart from six books that were translated in four languages, he has held more than 1000 slideshows that inspire the audience world wide. Because of their alpine successes, but also because of the numerous articles and covers that featured them, the brothers are among the most successful mountaineers today.
They have not only reached an audience of climbers, but also a more general public. They were featured in numerous articles in famous German magazines and newspapers, like the Spiegel, the Stern, the Sueddeutsche Zeitung, and the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung . They also made appearances in popular TV programs like TV Total, Mittagsmagazin, or Markus Lanz.
In 2007, the Film To the Limit had its theatrical release. It was awarded with the Bavarian Film Award and the German Camera Award. In July 2008, Thomas and Alexander were awarded the Bavarian Sports Award.
PUSHING THE LIMITS IN THE MOUNTAINS
Alexander is born on December 30, 1968, in Trostberg in Bavaria. He is the second of three children of Thomas and Maria Huber. From a young age, their parents take the children to the mountains, and it is mainly their dad, who is known in the climbing scene for fast and early ascents of classics such as the Droites North Face, that is responsible for the extreme alpinism they pursue.
With their dad, they make several trips to the Western Alps, and summit no less than 30 four-thousanders. From age 15 on, he mostly climbs with his brother Thomas, laying the foundation for their further development as the Huberbuam. The UIAGM mountain guide and physics graduate is among the most successful and well-rounded alpinists in the world.
Alexander first becomes better known when he climbs extremely hard sport routes. He is the first climber to achieve the grade of 5.15a by doing the first ascents of Weisse Rose and Open Air (9a+/XI+/5.15a). Moreover he does the first redpoint ascent of the legendary Salathé Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He has since also freed the Zodiac and established five more free routes on El Cap, and is considered one of the leading figures of the free climbing movement on big walls.
In 1997, he leads an expedition to the Karakoram mountains where they achieve the first ascent of the west face of Latok II (7.108m). Alexander and his team are the first to take big wall climbing strategies to such altitudes, and thus to the highest peaks of the world. A year later, he summits Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain on Earth. He has also been on top of famous peaks like Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
In late 2008, the Huberbuam summit the Ulvetanna, the hardest mountain in Antarctica; and by doing the first ascent of the west face of Holtanna, they also put up the hardest route on the frozen continent. Other highlights of their career are the first free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in August 2009, and a team free ascent of the Bavarian Direct (5.13c) on Mount Asgard in 2012.
In Winter 2000, he solos the first ascent of a route that climbs the huge stepped roof on the north face of Cima Ovest, and a year later, he redpoints the same route, Bellavista (XI-/5.14b), thereby creating a route in a league with the hardest big wall rock climbs in the world.. He continues establishing similar routes: Panaroma (XI-/5.14b) through the same roof in 2007, and in 2012, Nirwana (5.14c/XI-) on the Sonnwendwand at the Lofer Alm.
It is also on Tre Cime that Alexander free solos the notoriously loose Direttissima (5.12a/VIII+) on Cima Grande, and two years later, he pushes the limits yet again with a ropeless ascent of Kommunist (5.14a/X+), the only route of its grade that has ever been free soloed. In 2008, he achieves the first free solo ascent of Grand Capucin, the most difficult summit of the Alps.
In the Mont-Blanc-Massif - the place where alpinism was born more than 300 years ago - some of the most attractive alpine climbing challenges are found even today. Alexander seeks and finds his own goals with a free solo ascent of the South Face of Dent du Géant and the first redpoint ascent of the Voie Petit (8b/5.13d) on Grand Capucin. The Voie Petit remains the hardest climb in the »Playground of Europe«.
Alexander and Thomas are extremely well-rounded alpinists, and this is what enables them to be one of the fastest parties in the world. The Huberbuam are currently holding the speed record on the Zodiac with a time of 1:51:34. This is the fastest time on any grade VI big wall on El Capitan. In 2007 and 2008 they held the record on the Nose, the most famous rock climb on Earth, with a time of 2:45:45.
Their attempts to break the record of the Nose were documented in the movie »To the Limit«.
|1968||Born on December 30, in Trostberg/Bavaria|
|1981||First Four-Thousander: Allalinhorn, Wallis Alps|
|1982||First rock climb, Alte Westwand on Kleiner Watzmann, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|1984||First alpine first ascent: Raunachtstanz (VI+/6a+) on Wagendrischlhorn, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|1986||First ascent of Utopia (VIII+/7a+) on the Wartsteinwand, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|1988||High school graduation|
|First ascent of Vom Winde verweht (X-/8a+) on Scharnstein, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|1989||First ascent of Turkey (X+/8b+) in Karlstein|
|First ascent of Scaramouche (X-/8a) on Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|Civilian service at the Red Cross from 1989 to 1990|
|1990||First ascent of Soulrider (X/8b) on Wartstein, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|1991||First ascent of Shogun (XI-/8c) in Karlstein|
|1992||Mountain guide training finished|
|First ascent of Om (XI/9a) in the Endstal, Berchtesgaden Alps|
|1994||First ascent of Weiße Rose (XI/9a+), Schleierwasserfall, Tirol|
|1995||First professional presentations|
|First redpoint ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b/8a+) on El Capitan, California|
|1996||First ascent of Open Air (XI+/9a+) at Schleierwasserfall, Tirol|
|1997||University graduation with a degree in physics|
|Assistant on the Institute for Theoretical Meteorology at the Ludwigs-Maximilians-Universität München|
|First ascent of the west face of Latok II, 7.108 meters, in the Karakoram, Pakistan|
|1998||Ascent of Cho Oyu, 8.201 meters, Himalaya, Tibet|
|First ascent of El Nino (5.13c/8a+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California|
|First ascent of Free Rider (5.12d/7c+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California|
|2000||First ascent of Golden Gate (5.13a/8a)|
|2001||First ascent of Bellavista (XI-/8c) on the north face of Cima Ovest, Dolomites, South Tyrol|
|First ascent of El Corazon (5.13b/8a+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California|
|2002||Ascents of Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia|
|Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima on the North Face of Cima Grande, Dolomites, South Tyrol|
|2003||First redpoint ascent of the Free Zodiac (5.13d/8b+) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California|
|2004||Free-Solo-Ascent of Kommunist (X+/8b+) at Schleierwasserfall, Tyrol|
|Speed record of the Zodiac in 1:51,34 hours, El Capitan, Yosemite, California|
|2005||First redpoint ascent of Voie Petite (X/8b) on Grand Capucin, Montblanc, France|
|2006||First ascent of Golden Eagle on the Desmochada, Patagonia|
|Free-Solo-ascent of Dent du Géant south face (VII+/6b+), Montblanc, Italy|
|2007||First ascent of Pan Aroma (XI-/8c) on the north face of Cima Ovest, Dolomites, South Tyrol.|
|Speed record on the Nose in 2:45,45 (until July 2008) on El Capitan, Yosemite, California|
|2008||First ascent of El Bastardo on the Silla, Patagonia|
|First Free-Solo-Ascent of Grand Capucin (VII+/6b+), Montblanc, France|
|Free-Solo-Ascent of Locker vom Hocker (VIII/7a+) on Schüsselkarspitze, Wetterstein, Tyrol|
|First ascent of the north buttress and the west face of Holtanna and the west buttress of Ulvetanna, Antarctica.|
|2009||First redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame (5.13a/8a) on Nameless Tower, 6.251m, Karakoram, Pakistan|
|2012||First redpoint ascent of Free Bavarian Direct (5.13b/8a+) on Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, Canada|
|First ascent of Nirwana (XI-/8c+) on the Sonnwendwand, Tyrol|
Om, 9a – 1st ascent
Weiße Rose, 9a – 1st ascent
Salathé, 5.13b – 1st redpoint ascent
Open Air, 9a+ – 1st ascent
LATOK II, 7.108 m
Westface, 6c/A3+ – 1st ascent
CHO OYU, 8.201 m
Dir. NW-Route, up to 55° – regular ascent
El Niño, 5.13b – 1st ascent
Free Rider, 5.12d – 1st redpoint ascent
Golden Gate, 5.13a – 1st ascent
Bellavista, 8c – 1st redpoint
El Corazon, 5.13b – 1st ascent
Compressor Route, V/A1 – regular ascent
Franco-Argentina, 6b – redpoint ascent
Exocet, 6a/90° – winter ascent
Direttissima, 7a+ – first free solo ascent
Zodiac, 5.13d – 1st redpoint ascent
Kommunist, 8b+ – first free solo ascent
Zodiac, A2+/5.8 – speed record in 1:51,34 hours
Voie Petit, 8b – 1st redpoint ascent
Golden Eagle, 5.11/A1 – 1st ascent
DENT DU GEANT
South Face, 6c – first free solo ascent
Pan Aroma, 8c – 1st ascent
Nose, 5.9/A1 – speed record in 2:45,45 hours
Westface, 5.11/A1 – 1st ascent
Feuertaufe, 8b+ – 1st ascent
Swiss Route, 6b – 1st free solo ascent
Locker vom Hocker, 7a – free solo ascent
West Face, 5.10+/A4 – 1st ascent
North Buttress, 5.10 – 1st ascent, 1st free ascent
Northwest Buttress, 5.11a/A2 – 1st ascent
Murciana, 6c – first free solo ascent
NAMELESS TOWER, 6.251 m
Eternal Flame, 5.13a – 1st redpoint ascent
Donnervogel, 8b – 1st redpoint ascent
Bavarian Direct, 5.13b – 1st free ascent
Nirwana, 8c+ – 1st redpoint ascent